Wednesday, February 1, 2012

Detroit Flag, Corktown Edition

I love ethnic neighborhoods. In a land filled with cookie-cutter suburbs from New Jersey to Nevada--Lowe's, Applebee's, Wal-Mart, repeat--it's great to hang out in spots that are unique and differentiated. A few years back a friend of mine told me one of my favorite stories about an ethnic neighborhood. The neighborhood is Tipperary Hill in Syracuse, New York. The story is about a traffic light. In a previous post, I mentioned that the red-yellow-green traffic light was invented by William Potts, a Detroit police officer. That color scheme was not popular in Tipperary Hill because it placed the British red above the Irish green. So, the neighbors threw stones at the red light sitting atop the main intersection of their neighborhood. After the city fixed the light, they threw stones again, repeat. After much ado the light was finally flipped with green on top and red on the bottom. Erin Go Bragh!

With the spirit of the Tipperary Hill stonethrowers in mind and being just over a month away from Saint Patrick's day and having just moved into Detroit's historically Irish neighborhood, Corktown, I offer you a handcrafted, Corktown edition of the flag of the City of Detroit.

Notice the field of green with yellow shamrocks mirrors the field of white with yellow fleur-de-lis, honoring the early Celtic settlers of Detroit from France and Ireland.


The Irish green replaces the original British red with yellow lions rampant.


Happy Saint Patrick's Day.

Thursday, December 29, 2011

Hidden History of Detroit by Amy Elliott Bragg

Last night I read Amy Elliot Bragg's new book, Hidden History of Detroit. It's a fantastic, snowy-night read. Check it out. Amy has a list of places to buy the book on her blog, The Night Train. You can also follow Amy on Twitter.

I would say the glass of Canadian Club Classic 12 is optional, but really it's not.

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Getting from point A to point B

I grew up near Lakeside Mall in suburban Detroit. When I was living there in the late 80s and early 90s it was a spaghetti mess of strip mall roads, service drives, twisting subdivision streets, suddenly-ending sidewalks and a super-regional mall parking lot.

When I tried to walk from my home to one of the nearby stores people would either honk in anger or pull over in sympathy to ask if I was OK and needed a ride.

From what I can tell, it's even worse nowadays for pedestrians up there at M-59 and Schoenherr.

I'm not hating on suburbs. I can't. My mom, who grew up in Detroit, loves the suburbs and I want her to be happy. Plus, sometimes she reads what I put online and then tells me not to swear so much. Hi, mom. Go suburbia!

Well, since I graduated high school - in other words, since I've been in charge of deciding where I live - I've picked places with a walkable, urban design:
  • Houghton, Michigan
  • Rochester, Minnesota
  • Ann Arbor, Michigan
  • Kendall Square, Cambridge, Massachusetts
  • German Village, Columbus, Ohio
  • Noe Valley, San Francisco, California
  • Downtown, Detroit, Michigan
It was the autumn of 1991 when I moved out of the suburbs and it just occurred to me today that I've been living this walkable lifestyle for 20 years now! 2 decades!

So, it's no wonder people in the suburbs look at me funny when I explain to them how I live in downtown Detroit. What seems most strange to suburban dwellers is how I get around. I wanted to share my thought process about how I get from point A to point B in downtown Detroit and other neighborhoods where I've lived.

Other than a torrential downpour I follow the process below in all kinds of weather including snow and even if I'm carrying a reasonable amount of stuff like groceries for the week.
  • 3 miles or less? Walk.
  • 8 miles or less? Bicycle.
  • Doable on public transit? Public transit.
    • this one is tough in Detroit, but in and around neighboring Canada is easy
  • Otherwise, drive my car.
How does this translate into everyday life? It means most of the time my car sits in the garage. I only use it to get to my parents in the suburbs, to the airport (which is due to a lack of regional transit infrastructure in Michigan) or to drive my 12 foot standup paddleboard out to Belle Isle park.

I love cars and I love being able to drive when and where I want. But as an American what I really love is choice and freedom. If I choose to ride my bike, I don't want a tour bus filled with drunken Tiger fans to pull over and spit on my face, which happened to me on John R near the art museum in Detroit. If I choose to walk, I don't want to deal with cars turning into me in the crosswalk because they don't know I have the right of way, which happens to me just about everyday. And I really want to be able to take public transit more often than I do in Detroit.

I hope Governor Snyder and all the folks working on the M-1 rail line in Michigan are successful with our regional transit strategy. Life is more joyful and healthier when one can choose to walk around town or ride a bike, meet a stranger, talk or just people watch.

Thursday, October 6, 2011

Chief Pontiac: Detroit's Original Badass

The video below is a studio version of the TEDxDetroit 2011 talk, including previously deleted scenes. Or watch on YouTube.




Here are the slides from the presentation.



Feel free to download from SlideShare.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Great Detroiter: Brandy

Quick. You're at a downtown bar. You have to order a brandy. You want to be the best Detroiter you can be. Which brandy do you pick?

Being equally proud of my family heritage (Irish) and Detroit's colonial history (French), not to mention being an all-around fan of urban culture, Hennesey (an Irish/French cognac house) is a good choice. By the way, Cognac is a type of brandy from the Cognac region of France. There are brandies named for other regions of France - we'll come to that later.

Another good choice for a Detroiter is to pick a made in Michigan brandy. It turns out we have a few. I haven't tried them yet, but having read about them on Drink Michigan, I'm going to consume some sooner than later.

In my opinion, the ultimate choice for a historically-minded Detroiter is to drink the same brandy as our founder, Antoine Laumet de La Mothe, sieur de Cadillac. Cadillac was from Gascony, 'famed for its douceur de vivre ("sweetness of life")'. Gascony is home to one of the world's famous brandy regions: Armagnac. In fact, among the first shipment of goods from France to Detroit was a case of Armagnac brandy for Cadillac sent to him by his friends and family.

So, when you're in a pinch and you want to be an awesome Detroiter (and show your friends just how pretentious you can be) order a snifter of Armagnac and drink like an early Detroiter.

Sunday, November 28, 2010

Irish Channel & Corktown

I was in New Orleans for a conference. Instead of staying at the downtown hotel I scouted around for a cool-looking neighborhood, found a bed & breakfast, rented a bike and lived like a local for a week.

The neighborhood I chose, Irish Channel, is in the Garden District west of downtown. The neighborhood felt a lot like Corktown in Detroit. I took a quick look at the history and geography of the two places and found interesting similarities. I have outlined a few of them in the slides below.
The Irish Channel has a fantastic collection of stores, bars, coffee shops & restaurants on Magazine Street.  Corktown doesn't quite have that today, but with the work of the Cooley family and many others it's easy to imagine Michigan Avenue (US-12) becoming a similar, walkable destination. The state & federal government could help out by narrowing the street to make it safer and more walkable.

If you're a Detroiter and you're ever in New Orleans go check out the Irish Channel neighborhood. I recommend staying at The Duchess Bed & Breakfast, the innkeeper, Juanita, will take great care of you during your stay.


View Larger Map

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Excellence Killed Detroit

[Updated March 30th, 2011]

The decline of Detroit is often attributed to incompetence or menace: bad government, bad industry, bad schools, bad intentions, bad race relations.

I've got a hunch that excellence and unintended consequences had more to do with it.

When we think of the modern American landscape, what do we think? We probably do not imagine an urban neighborhood with corner stores, row houses and parks.

Instead, we think of shopping malls, subdivisions, cars and freeways. It turns out that the pioneers and leaders in all four areas were Detroiters.

Is there a correlation between suburban excellence and urban decline?

Adoption

Why is Detroit so different today from New York, Boston and Chicago?

Let's ask a seemingly unrelated question: why was San Francisco the first city to thoroughly adopt Yelp? Twitter? And Google?

All the innovative websites listed above were invented in the San Francisco area. Word of mouth helped the value of those technologies spread through personal networks. There was an excitement that rippled through the community because one either knew the creators directly or a friend of a friend who did. Knowing people and having a shared social context made it compelling to try and adopt new products. Plus, there was a lot of money to made by being involved with these projects.

For example, the first version of Twitter was launched in July 2006.  If one were living in San Francisco and wasn't using Twitter and understanding it's world-changing nature by the spring of 2007 then one was simply out of the loop.

The social dynamics of San Francisco and Silicon Valley require one to be all-in on new technology and to view old technology largely with disdain.

As we explore the dynamics of Detroit as Detroiters created mass-market cars, freeways, malls and subdivisions it's interesting to imagine the excitement that must have rippled through the community with the launch of each new product. Imagine how the act of abandoning the old while heralding the new must have been socially rewarding and engaging. Plus, there was a lot of money to be made.

Furthermore, unlike websites, the products in Detroit were physical and present. One couldn't ignore a new freeway or a new shopping mall the same way one could ignore a new website.

My hunch is that the biggest reason Detroit (founded in 1701 by Louis XIV of France) today is so different from other American cities that were founded during the colonial era is that Detroiters thoroughly adopted the new 'suburban technologies' of the 1900s while other cities adopted them only in moderation.


Cars

Detroit has been leading America's automobile industry for over 100 years. Famous businessmen like Henry Ford, Billy Durant and Alfred Sloan led the way to put the world on wheels.

Many media outlets mislead people into believing that the recent dips in market share of the Detroit region's Big 3 carmakers is the cause of the City of Detroit's physical decline.

The best counterexample is Chrysler Headquarters and Technology Center. Completed in 1993, it is the second largest office complex in North America after the pentagon. Chrysler did not build it in Detroit, but the northern suburbs of Oakland County. So, while Time magazine publishes photos of the abandoned Packard plant, the executives, bureaucrats, engineers and scientists of Chrysler are working in an excellent, state-of-the-art facility miles away.

Should Chrysler have rehabilitated Detroit's old Packard plant instead? Yes. But the car business is not the internet business. Physical infrastructure is expensive and difficult to re-purpose. The market doesn't generally tolerate a carmaker spending the money needed to hit the reset button on an old, urban facility when empty farmland is available on the cheap out in the suburbs.

Long before Chrysler moved to Auburn Hills, GM hatched the plan in 1944 of moving designers, engineers and scientists out of Detroit to the suburb of Warren, where it created the General Motors Technical Center. At the time it was heralded as the Versailles of Industry. The facility is still cranking out some of the most innovative car design and technology in the world.

And even before GM moved it's laboratories to the suburbs, Ford moved it's automobile assembly from the Detroit enclave of Highland Park to the suburb of Dearborn.

Chrysler, GM and Ford weren't trying to create dilapidated space in the city, they were trying to create excellence in the suburbs. However, they did both.

Likewise the car industry in the 1920s wasn't trying to destroy our urban fabric. They were having fun building stuff, moving faster than human beings had ever moved before while ensuring there was a lot less horse manure on the streets. However, they also helped destroy the urban fabric of Detroit by making it so easy to commute long distances. It wasn't the intention, but it happened anyway.

Freeways

Along with the automotive tycoons, lesser-known people had a major impact creating the suburban world we have today. 

William Potts, a Detroit police officer, invented the red-yellow-green traffic light.

Frank Rogers, Michigan's preeminent road commissioner, paved thousands of miles of Michigan's roads and created many of the political and financial models for road commissions around the world. The snowplow was also invented by a Michiganian.

Detroiters were making it easy to move around within and leave the city before people in other cities had fully understood just how different a car-driven metropolis would be.

Malls

Few things are as American as the two-level, fully-enclosed, artificially lit, circuitous mall that ensures shoppers see every storefront. The shopping mall concept was invented by A. Alfred Taubman, who is considered a pioneer and legend in retailing.

Taubman was born in Pontiac, MI. He is a huge philanthropist in the Detroit and Ann Arbor area. In terms of business innovation, Taubman's shopping mall is hugely valuable, creative and profitable. His company, Taubman Centers based in Bloomfield Hills, MI, owns shopping malls across Michigan and across the country and is considered an American empire.

Taubman Centers is also a reason Detroit doesn't have a walkable, urban retail zone. The malls were just way too good at what they did. It sucked all those shoppers out of the often cold, rainy, snowy Detroit sidewalks and into comfortable suburban malls.

Subdivisions

Many metro-Detroiters of my generation or younger have no idea what a neighborhood is. If pressed to answer: "what's your neighborhood?" they might respond with the name of their subdivision or their suburb. But, they don't know what an urban neighborhood is. They haven't experienced Corktown or Hubbard Farms or Indian Village where one has a bar, stores and a park all within walking distance. For them the houses are on the 'inside' and the shopping is something to which one drives on the 'outside' of the subdivision.

This brings us to Pulte Homes. In 1950, Bill Pulte built his first home. In 1960 he built his first subdivision with 49 lots. Today Pulte Homes is the nation's largest homebuilder. Bill Pulte is from Detroit. He has created tons of jobs, he has 14 children and dozens of grandchildren. Like Taubman, his company is based in Bloomfield Hills and he seems to be a very likable Michigan entrepreneur.

However, he is also largely responsible for the death of the urban neighborhood in Detroit. He wasn't trying to kill cities. But he did it anyway. The subdivisions he built were more appealing.

Exodus or Migration

Many observers characterize the abandonment of Detroit as flight: an exodus from the city. When viewed in the context of contrasting the new and shiny with the old and understood, the movement to the suburbs was done, at least in part, with a spirit of migration to something better as opposed to just an exodus from something terrible.

Once the infrastructure was in place in the suburbs it's easy to imagine the social pressure on CEOs of city-based companies to move their operations to the suburbs. Our business leaders, were likely caught up in the excitement at their country clubs about the promise of the new suburban mode of doing business.

Imagine being the CEO of a media company based in Detroit, talking to the CEO of a car company who just invested in a suburban facility. It's easy to imagine the peer pressure that must have been exerted to move out. Once a CEO decided to move his company to the suburbs it was only a matter of time before all his employees would move out too, accelerating the decline of Detroit.

We recently experienced this type of 'leadership', when the CEO of Comerica (a bank that had been based in Detroit since 1849) moved the company's headquarter to Dallas, TX in 2007. His rationale: pacify the critics on Wall Street who think of Comerica as a Detroit company.

This type of self-fulfilling spiral of short-term decisions litters the history of Detroit.

Media Coverage

When national and even local news outlets cover Detroit, they don't interview Lee Iacocca asking him why he vacated Detroit and created blight. They don't make even the simplest systematic connections:
  • vacancy is Detroit's biggest problem
  • vacancy is caused by those who vacate 
  • vacancy is NOT caused by those who stay
  • therefore let's interview the people who vacated
Instead, they interview people who are still living in the neighborhoods and reeling from the unintended consequences. To the casual viewer, it appears that the people being interviewed are the cause of the blight that surrounds them.

This gets especially tricky when spanning generations. A typical twenty-something living in Macomb county looks with disdain on the people of the east side of Detroit. Not realizing that the blight is directly related to their Italian, Polish and German parents and grandparents abandoning those neighborhoods.

The media ought to interview the evacuees, the CEOs who decided in the 1950s, 60s and 70s to leave their highly-regarded skyscrapers downtown and trade them in for office parks in the suburbs. Do they feel they acted rationally? Were they thinking systematically? Are they satisfied with the results? Do they believe there were unintended consequences?

And they ought to interview the grand-children of the ordinary folks who left Detroit. Do they understand that their families contributed to the problems? Do they feel a sense of accountability for the state of Detroit? Do they realize the fate of the suburbs and the fate of the city are highly connected?

Excellence and Unintended Consequences

The leading visionaries and companies in malls, subdivisions and cars are all Detroiters. Instead of being called Motor City, we could be called America City. Our people lead the way and most the new growth in the USA has followed our lead. Cities today are exceptions. People pay to visit downtown Disney, but live in a subdivision, shop at malls and drive their cars on freeways.